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  • Cordless drill
  • Drill Bit
  • Rivet Gun
  • Safety Goggles
  • Non-Slip Gloves
  • Tin Snips
  • Stepladder
  • Screwdriver

Check first the contents of the pack against the checklist provided, just to make sure you’ve got everything. The kit comes with pop rivets and screws.

  1. Assembling:

DOOR – attach the top and bottom dollar channels and rivet at the center ribs only. Then attach the side channels and fix all four corners. Turn the door over and fix all four corners form this side as well. Fix down the door sides with four rivets on each edge. Attach the door strip in the center of the door sheet. Slip it under the door side and then fix it to the rib and door side. (To fix the hinges, measure 120 mm from each end.) Fix the center rivet first.
DOOR BRACES – run from the top and bottom of the hinge side of the door. Fix them at the ends and center. You may need to cut or bend the flange at the top or bottom, if it catches on the door jamb when opening.

  1. FRONT WALL – attach the door jambs to the front wall sheets. Now we’ll attach the door to the front wall. Measure 30 mm from top and bottom. Fix the center rivet first, leaving a small gap for the hinge. Then fix the channels to the top and bottom of the sheeting. When you’re fixing the channels to the sheeting, make sure the higher side of the channel is on the inside of the shed. On the outside fix the channel at the corners by drilling and riveting. Use the door spacer to determine the correct opening size by placing on the bottom flange of the door jambs and fix it into place. Then rivet every second rib in between. On the inside, place one rivet per sheet at each end, up through the channel underside and through the door jambs and spacer. Do the same for the other end. Then you’re ready to attach the pad bolt onto the door.
  2. SIDES – layout the sheet. To determine how many by the size of the shed you’re building. Make sure that the ends of the sheets are flush. Fix the sheets together with two rivets through the overlapping ribs. Then attach the top and bottom channels. Fix them at the corners, then every second rib. We also need to put at least one rivet up through the underside of the channel into each sheet. Same at the back. Fix the sheets together with two rivets and attach top and bottom channels. Fix in the corners, then every second rib, and at least one rivet from the inside per sheet.
  3. ROOF – the roof is attached together, and the channels are on, but the corners are not yet riveted because the L Flashings need to be attached. Place the short flange of the L on top of the rib at one end, and put one rivet in the center, just to hold it in place. Rivet the corners through the channels and then add one more between the corner and the center rivet.


  1. Give each panel a wee shake-off, just to get rid of any filings. They can cause rust and reduce the life of your shed. Stand up the back wall, then bring the left wall in and fix from the outside, about 100mm down from the top and 100mm up from the bottom. Then do the same for the right-hand wall, checking to make sure the walls are sitting flat on the bottom.
  2. Bring the front wall into place and attach in the same way. Finish joining the corners by adding rivets approximately 200 to 300 mm apart. (You’ll find it easier to drill these corners if they are supported from the inside.)
  3. Now we are ready to use the concrete floor clamps to fasten the shed to the base using an electric drill and masonry bit.
  4. Its ready to lift the roof into position. At the ends, add rivets through the L flashing into the top channels of the wall. Then place more rivets at 300 mm intervals. On the roof, add rivets beside every second rib, down into the top channel of the front and back walls.




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